Expat Woman Living in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

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By saudizen

Living in Saudi Arabia

What is life reallly like for expat women living in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia? Riyadh is the county's capital, and is attributed many names, particularly by the expats who relocate here. Their descriptions range from Boring Center of Saudi, or The Sand Pit to The Magic Kingdom.

Riyadh is not everyone's cup of qahwah but being the base for the Saudi royals, home to four million people from all corners of the globe and the most conservative city in the country, its certainly an interesting study

I arrived in Riyahd on Jan 1st 2010 - new year, new lifestyle. Although my husband, who arrived 18 months before me, explained how different the lifestyle and culture are, it is still hard to comprehend life in Saudi Arabia unless you are here living it. There were also aspects of the culture he could not explain to me because of the extreme gender segregation that is such a large part of life in the Kingdom.

Finding the answers to the 'women only' questions has been an interesting exercise and on this hub I hope to impart some little gems of expat wisdom for women who may be planning on living in Saudi Arabia. .

Questions about living in Saudi Arabia from a woman's perspective

Expat women have numerous questions about life in Saudi Arabia. After the initial settling in period queries tend to be directed at the finer details of residing safely and comfortably in this country. Questions such as:

  • Can I take photo's in public?
  • Can I order from a cafe that does not have a family section or will I be chased out as a harlot?
  • Can I go shopping on my own without a husband escort?
  • Are the fun parks properly maintained for safety?
  • How do I try on clothes if there are no fitting rooms in the shops?
  • When am I allowed to sit in the front seat of the taxi because I get sick packed like sardines in the back seat with 4 other women?
  • What can I expect when visiting a Saudi home for the first time, and what should I wear.
  • Am I allowed to talk to Saudi women??
  • Where is a good place for laser hair removal.
  • Can I go on trips around the country on my own.

Finding your feet in Saudi Aabia requires asking lots of questions of other expats. One of the quirks of Saudi is that a lot of news and information is sent via the word of mouth grapevine or carefully selected e-mail networks. This, I believe, is to protect expats. There is still a lot of caution about westerners and their activities in the Kingdom.

Books about women in Saudi Arabia

Princess: A True Story of Life Behind the Veil in Saudi Arabia
Amazon Price: $4.45
List Price: $12.95
In the Land of Invisible Women: A Female Doctor's Journey in the Saudi Kingdom
Amazon Price: $5.01
List Price: $14.99
Girls of Riyadh
Amazon Price: $5.20
List Price: $15.00

Answers to the questions above for expat women

Can I take photo's in public? - Yes...However...The decree that allows taking photo's in public places was announced in 2006 but not everybody knows about it, so it does not pay to flaunt your camera ware around. Even with this decree the most important thing to remember is do not take photo's of local women - even in all their blacked out garb and if taking photo's of men always ask permission first..

Can I order from a cafe that does not have a family section?. - Yes but be prepared to be asked to leave the premises and wait for your order outside. It is not acceptable to sit down inside and wait for your order unless the place is empty. It's good manners to ask the staff first as they are the ones who can get into trouble for allowing you to stay.

Can I go shopping on my own without a husband escort? - Yes. For safety let someone know where you're going, always carry your phone and totally ignore any approaches by men giving you their phone numbers.

Are the fun park rides properly maintained for safety? - The better ones are.

How do I try on clothes if there are no fitting rooms in the shops? - Ask what the return policy is - most are excellent. Then buy the clothes and either take them home to try on, returning as required or take them to the nearest toilet and do the same.

When am I allowed to sit in the front seat of the taxi if out with a group of women? - This depends on the driver. For those who say no your alternative option is find another taxi. Some will let you on the understanding they will blame you should they get in trouble for having an unrelated woman in the front seat. I carry a white T-shirt and cap where ever I go. Throw those on and jump in.

What can I expect when visiting a Saudi home for the first time, and what should I wear? - Expect wonderful hospitality. Expect lots of Arabic chatter. Expect qahwa (Arabic Coffe) and food. Expect no other men. If the invite includes your husband you will be separated at the door. Wear what you are comfortable in given the occassion.

Am I allowed to talk to Saudi women? - Yes ( if you're a woman). Yes... if you're a western man asking reasonable questions. For example you're in the vege area of the supermarket looking at strange food and want to know how to prepare it. Don't always expect an answer, be glad if you get one, be especially glad if you get one in good English.

Where is a good place for laser hair removal. - In Riyadh places include Yibreen Spa, Dermaclinic, Adama Hospital and the Kaya Skin Clinic.

Can I go on trips around the country on my own. - In essence, yes, though not highly recommended. You can join expat tour groups as a single woman. I travel with Haya Tours and one other private tour group. If choosing to travel alone you may not be able to check into a hotel as a single woman. Check this when booking. Ensure the person you ask has a good graps of the English language. Always carry your iqama (residency card) or passport with you when travelling.

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